Ariella

阿姆斯特丹安妮的家和布拉格的猶太區的啟蒙，讓我更了解戰爭、宗教和種族歧視的恐怖。當然，從小到大都有在教科書上看到，但是震撼的程度遠遠比不上親眼目睹。學妹勸我不要去這種陰氣重的地方，因為我的體質十分敏感，但是我就是忍不住想去哀悼那些無辜的受害者。當然現在認識外星姊後，發現第六感比我靈的人大有所在。我相信只要存有善心，孤魂野鬼也不會忍心纏我太久﹝好鬼會幫我擋掉壞鬼吧﹞。Morag是個十分隨和的遊伴，從來不會勉強任何人去任何景點，當她知道我也對猶太人的歷史有興趣﹝只要不用考試我就有興趣﹞時，興奮地發現終於有人和她臭氣相投了。
Anne Frank's House in Amsterdam and the Jewish Quarter in Prague gave me a shocking lesson about the horrors of wars, religious conflicts and racial discrimination. Indeed, we have been taught all these at school. However, it is always more realistic to see it for yourselves. Reenee asked me not to visit such gruesome places as I am very sentive to all sorts of spirits. However, I simply could not help to mourn over the victims. Now I have met G4alien who has got a much stronger sixth sense than I am. I believe that as long as you have a kind heart, any spirits will not disturb you for long (well, the good ones will stop the bad ones). Morag was a very easygoing friend who never forces anyone to visit any particular attrations. When she knew that I was also interested in Jewish history (As long as I don't have to go through any examinations), she was excited that she has found a buddy.


特瑞辛，德文為特麗莎鎮，是奧匈帝國國王喬瑟夫二世在1780年為了紀念他母親瑪莉亞特麗莎而建立的堡壘。它可以容納11,000士兵，起初的目地是為了預防德列斯登的敵人。
Terezín, Theresienstadt) was a fortified garrison built by Austrian Emperor Joseph II in 1780 in the memory of his mother, Maria Theresa. It was to stop the enemy from Dresden and could accommodate 11,000 soldiers.


這碉堡式防守要塞分兩部分，有八角形的大堡壘(Hlavni pevnost)，和長方形的小堡壘(Mala pevnost)，鎮底下有一系統各29公里的地下走道。自從建立以來，特瑞辛一直都沒有機會發揮防守要塞的功能。1850年後，小堡壘被用來
囚禁政治犯，著名的囚犯有塞爾維亞學生加夫里若普林西普，他槍殺奧匈帝國皇儲費迪南大公夫婦，引發了1914年的第一次世界大戰，在1918年死於特瑞辛。
The garrison consists of an octagonal main fortress (Hlavni pevnost) and the rectangular small fortress (Mala pevnost). A system of 29km long corridors runs under the town. After 1850s, the small fortress was used to jail political prisoners. Serb student Gavrilo Princip who assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand and triggered WWI in 1914, was kept until he died in 1918.

我們一大早從布拉格出發，Morag認得車上有兩位是德國遊客。我們其實不知道在哪裡下車，直到我從車窗看到這一座堡壘，我就知道我們抵達了。果然不出我所料就只有我們四位旅客下車，這又讓我越來越欣賞德國人，肯來學習她們以前的錯誤。
We departed early from Prague. Morag recognised that two passengers on the same bus were German. Actually we did not know where to drop off until I saw their enormous fortress. As I expected, only four of us left the bus. This really made me admire the German more as they were willing to learn from their mistake.

我們底達的第一個目的地是小堡壘，在第二次世界大戰被變成德國改成波西米亞摩拉維亞攝政領土的集中營，蓋世太保(納粹的祕密警察)把捷克斯洛伐克各地的愛國人士監禁在此。
This destination was the small fortress. It became a prison and later a concentration camp within the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia in WWII. Czechs and Moravian patriots were sent and jailed here from various branches of Gestapo.

Morag說很玄的是，每次她參觀集中營時，天氣都出奇意外的好。
Morag said that it was weird that it was extremely sunny every time she visited a concentration camp.

小堡壘外即是國家公墓，目前有2386座墳墓(包含骨灰缸和土葬)。
Outside the Small Fortress was the National Cemetery which contains 2386 individual graves (urns or inhumation).

還有幾千位在小堡壘、特瑞辛猶太人街、Litoměřice工人營和戰後的受害者分別被葬在五座高塔下。國家公墓總計葬有一萬多位第二次世界大戰的受害者。
Moreover, thousands of victims who died in the Small Fortress, Terezín Ghetto, Litoměřice forced labour camp and those who were transported by death march to Terezín at the end of the war, were buried under the five pylons. In totally the National Cemetery holds the remains of more than 10,000 victims.

猶太人憑弔時，都會放石頭在墳墓上。我看到一位無名式的墳墓，也放了一顆石頭在上面。
Jewish put a stone on the grave to pay their respect to the dead. I saw a grave of a nameless person and put a stone for him.

小堡壘的前院的黑白大門就是監獄和集中營的入口，五年之內一共有32000人通過這道門。
The black and white gate at the forecourt of the Small Fortress was the entrance to the prison and concentration camp. In five years, some 32 000 men and women passed through the gates of the Small Fortress.

特瑞辛小堡壘是過境集中營，罪犯通常被運來此地奉獻他們的勞力，在被送去制裁或被送到奧許維次集中營被屠殺
The Small Fortress in Terezín was only a transit camp. Prisoners were sent here to contribut their labour before they were sent away to the court or to deported to Auschwitz.

這裡關的是重犯，有兩道鐵門
This was for important criminals as each room was guarded by double layer of metal door.

這裡是狹窄的單人監獄 These were narrow single prison cells.

他們共用的梳洗室 Their shared toilet

雖然九成囚犯是捷克或斯洛伐克人，還有蘇聯、波蘭、南斯拉夫、法國、義大利、英國等國的戰俘。
Although 90% of the inmates were Czechs and Slovaks, others included citizens of the Soviet Union, Poles, Yugoslavs, Frenchmen, Italians, English prisoners of war and other nationalities.

這裡關女性囚犯 This was the cell for female prisoners.

當囚犯越來越多時，居住的環境越來越險惡。他們必須像奴隸一樣地工作，好為德軍製造戰爭的必須用品。當德軍已經開始走下坡時，特瑞辛被迫加倍努力生產。
The living conditions worsened from year to year, and prisoners were forced into slave labour in order to benefit the German soldier. When the Germans were starting to defeat in the war, prisoners from Terezín were forced to work even harder.

只有在晚間休息時間，囚犯可以暫時逃避獄監的羞辱，由於大家皆是知識份子專業人士，私底下都會透過歌唱朗誦做政治和文化的交流。
In the evenings, in moments of rest, the prisoners could temporarily escape from the humiliation from their guards. As most are educated professionals, they hold secret political and cultural exchanges via singing and recitations.

人口擁擠，霍亂等傳染病就多，有幾位醫師囚犯說服典獄長設保健室，但是到後期竟然也供不應求。
Overcrowing encouraged infectious diseases such as typhoid. Several imprisoned doctors managed to persuade the Warden to set up a sick bay. However toward the end the supply could not hope with the demand.

內部突擊員維持監獄裡的秩序、耕種和建設附近的建築。
The internal komando maintained the prison, tilled the surrounding fields and built various structures.

『工作換來自由』最近是我在工作忙碌時鼓勵我自己的方式
"Work makes you free" has been my recent motto to encourage myself at work.

這裡是天堂路 This was the road to Heaven

我們走過一個不知名的隧道，牆上步滿了留言 We walked through a tunnel where messages were left on the wall.

出了隧道抬頭遇到刺眼的陽光，我睜大眼睛一看，原來我們到了刑場。從1943年後，小堡壘也開始以莫須有罪名開始執行死刑。一共有250多位囚犯被射殺。
From 1943 executions were carried out in the Small Fortress, on the basis of Sonderbehandlung - without judicial process. In all, more than 250 prisoners were shot.

然後就被運出去亂葬Then they were transported away for burial.

以色列是猶太人的發源地，幫忙重建小堡壘紀念區。在小堡壘是集中營的五年間，一共有超過1800位猶太囚犯，他們的命運比其他囚犯還要可憐，有500位被活活折磨致死，其他都被送到別的集中營等候被屠殺。

我們帶著沉重的心情離開小堡壘 We left the Small Fortress with heaviness.

我們走向大堡壘，二次世界大戰時是猶太人的集中營。
We headed towards the main fortress which was the concentration camp for Jews - the Terezín Ghetto.
希特勒告知世界要成立一個給猶太人的城市，讓他們遠離戰爭的變幻無常。他甚至製造紀錄片顯示他的追隨者帶著捷克和其他八國的猶太人來到這虛構的城市，這一招詐術瞞天過海許久，將近二十萬男女老少經過特瑞辛大門到東歐或到死神門口。大部分的捷克猶太人被送到特瑞辛，97,297位不幸罹難，這包括15,000兒童。其實只有132兒童生還！
Hitler claimed that he had built a city for the Jews to protect them from the vagaries of the war. A film was even made to show this mythic, idyllic city to which his henchmen were taking the Jews from the Czech Lands and eight other countries.  This ruse worked for a very long time. Nearly 200,000 men, women and children who passed through its gates as a way station to the East and probable death. Most Czech Jews were taken to Terezín, 97,297 died among whom were 15,000 children. Only 132 of those children were known to have survived!

紅十字會曾被邀請來特瑞辛參觀，當天特瑞辛還特意裝飾，囚犯特地被打扮地花枝招展站在引人注目的地方，商店放滿食物。特瑞辛有很多音樂家，每天有兩團交響樂團和其他小樂團表演，當時矇蔽了紅十字會的視察，以為特瑞辛是自給自足的城市。
The Red Cross was allowed to visit Terezín once. The village spruced up while inmates were dressed up and told to stand at strategic places. Shop windows along that carefully guarded path were filled with goods for the day. As there were many musicians in Terezín, there were full symphony orchestras and several chamber orchestras performing simultaneously daily. This fooled the Red Cross who thought that Terezín was a self-governing city.

特瑞辛戰前只有五千居民，戰爭的高峰時期，猶太街有超過55,000猶太人，當時是由捷克攝政軍維持秩序，這些捷克軍多數都很可憐猶太人，常常會私底下幫助他們，讓他們和外界接觸。
In the town of Terezín, the population had normally been around 5,000 people before the war. At the height of the war, the Ghetto held over 55,000 Jews. Protectorate guards who supervised the Jews often sympathised with the prisoners, attempted to help them and kept them in touch with the outside world.



人口擁擠造成大家飢餓、營養失調、傳染病肆虐。他們的屍體都被火化，據記載有三萬人被火化。
Again overcrowing causes hunger, malnutrition and spread of infectious diseases. Their dead bodies were cremated at the small crematorium. According to surviving cremation records, some 30 000 victims were cremated.

堡壘的防禦土牆存放了許多骨灰，但是納粹在戰爭結束前把大多數都摧毀了
Urns containing ashes were stored in the columbarium located in the ramparts. But the Nazis destroyed the majority before the end of the War. 

我們好像和其他遊客都走散了，一切都異常地安靜。我們隨著指示來到像公園一般的地區，本來以為迷路了，卻來到了猶太墓園，這裡埋葬了猶太街的九萬多名受害者。奇怪的是，墓園附近有一間餐廳兼民宿，我心想誰想在這鬼地方過夜。後來想起回布拉格的公車不頻繁，公車時間也沒標示出來，一定有糊塗遊客被迫留下來過夜吧！
We seemed to have separated from the other tourists. It appeared to be creepily quiet. We folloed the sign to a park-like region. At first we thought we were lost but we ended up in the Jewish Cemetery. Here lie some 9 000 victims from the ghetto. Strangely, there was a new restaurant cum pension near the cemetery. I wondered who wants to stay in this somebrous place. Later I recalled that the bus service to Prague was rather infrequent and the bus timetable was not even labelled. I think there must be some muddle-headed tourists who were forced to stay overnight.

目前特瑞辛只有三千居民，我們逛來逛去只看到一間雜貨店，還有一間賣快餐的窗口﹝漢堡好吃ㄟ！﹞還有幾間沒開門的服飾店，這個城市好悽涼喔！我站在猶太博物館門口，回想著展示裡的人口擁擠，好像不是在同一個地方一樣，我拿起我的相機拍照時，突然聽到Morag輕聲說『小心』，我轉頭一看，一個皮膚黝黑的小孩正在打量我和我的相機。他笑著說『Excuse me』我第一個反應是，吉普塞人！我一句話也沒回，故作鎮定地轉頭收相機招Morag離去。我從來沒有遇過吉普塞人，旅遊家Morag和我確認他就是，我竟然在特瑞辛這一個鳥不生蛋的地方被吉普塞人當目標！
At present there were 3000 residents in Terezín. We only saw a grocery shop, a fastfood window (yummy hamburger!) and some fashion shops which were closed. This city was so miserable! I stood in front of this Jewish Museum, recalling the overcrowding pictures inside. It seemed that I was in a completely different place.  I took out my camera when I heard Morag whispered "Be careful." I turned around and saw a dark-skinned boy looking at me and my camera. He said smilingly "Excuse me." My first reaction was "Gypsy!" Without any reply, I turned away tucking back my camera and walked away with Morag. I had never met a Gypsy and Morag confirmed that he was one. I could not believe my luck for becoming a target for a gypsy at this serene place.

公車總站只是一座冷清的站牌，最後一分鐘突然湧進許多沒禮貌的東歐人，爭先恐後地要插隊。幸好司機特地為我們把車停在我和Morag面前，我不敢置信的是他們還有膽推開我們上車。不過Morag好厲害，她也能堆開人讓我們順利上車。
The bus terminal was a lonely bus stop. At the last minute, groups of inpolite Eastern Europeans were trying to cut queue. Luckily the driver was good enough to stop the bus in front of Morag and me. I could not believe that they had the guts to push us away and attempted to board. However, Morag was great and pushed them back so we could board the bus successfully.

後記：雖然過了幾個月，當我在寫這一篇遊記時心情還是很沉重，花了好幾天才有能力寫完。我還是很推薦大家去參觀特瑞辛，了解捷克在二次世界大戰的處境。
PS: Despite months have passed since my visit to Terezín, my heart sank while writing this article. I spent days on drafting this article. I still recommend everyone to visit Terezín in order to understand how Czech survived through WWII.

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