Ariella

Káva Káva Káva是我在布拉格最愛的地方，它是一間無線上網的咖啡廳，沒電腦的人去樓下還有電腦。Káva在捷文即是咖啡，但是古希臘文是指中毒，英文是指一種實用讓人興奮的植物。我必須承認，自從開始上班後，我對令人興奮的咖啡中毒了。在歌劇院附近的Káva Káva Káva是我常常在等待Morag下班的地方，第二次去捷克，我拖著行李打開筆電也要跑來這裡上網等她下班。當我把MSN暱稱改為“我在布拉格”，突然有一種浪跡天涯的感覺，大家也紛紛丟訊息質問，哈哈！這一杯是有大衛之星的熱可可。

這一篇文章已經擱了一年了，在搬家前趕快PO出來。我喜歡自助旅行的另外一個原因，就是因為可以嘗試當地美食。我很不喜歡旅遊團還要三餐都吃不中不西的中式餐點，又貴三三的，我也不喜歡像某些背包客只吃麥當勞和泡麵，這些在哪裡都可以吃吧，還不見得便宜呢。經過在新加坡多元種族的洗禮後，我對各國美食的接受度還算挺高的。媽媽來新加坡探望我時很不屑吃印度拉餅，看我用手拿餅皮沾咖哩沾糖，她還覺得我學到不好習慣，我也只是入進隨俗罷了，直到媽媽要回台的那一天讓我說服吃ㄧ口印度拉餅，竟然讚不絕口，回到台灣都還念念不忘呢！當我說要來捷克旅行時，來過的朋友說食物很難吃，姊姊妹妹還問我是不是要吃傑克與豌豆 幸好Morag和我一樣是美食愛好者，所以她帶我去挖掘捷克的寶。
One reason why I enjoy backpacking is because I can try as many local food as I like. I don't like those Taiwanese package tours that include expensive non-Chinese Chinese food in each meal. I am not like those backpackers who feed on McDonald's and instant noodle. You can have them eveywhere in the world but why in the Czech Republic!? They are not really cheap. After living in Singapore, my willingness to try on various cuisines seemed to have gone up to a different level. When Mum visited me in Singapore, she despised on Indian Roti Prata. When she saw me dipping prata into curry and sugar using my hands, she thought that I had acquired a bad habit. Well, I was trying to fit into the locals. On the very last day Mum was leaving for Taiwan, I managed to persuade her into a bite of Roti Prata, she loved it! Before I came to the Czech Republic, I had heard about the poor quality of food. My sisters even asked if I was going to eat Jack and the Giant Beanstalk Fortunately, Morag loves food as much as I do. Thus, she led me the way to the treasures in this country.

剛來英國的時候很節儉，錯過了歐洲各國不同簽證不同幣值的旅遊經驗。開始工作之後，我開始認真遊玩，已經玩夠捷克，沒想到竟能有幸參予末代捷克簽證，捷克現在是申根國家囉！我看再過不久，捷克Crowns幣也要消失囉，可惜我旅行完只剩下硬幣。還有簽證因為是申根整個大漲價！現在心裡有種好加在的感覺，我看再過不久，捷克的消費就要大漲了。還有，以後可以為所欲為隨便在歐洲亂坐火車玩囉！那我得趕快加緊腳步，趕快去波蘭匈牙利等國玩喔！

小時候，恨不得馬上長大成人：長大後，又恨不得回到小時候天真無邪的生活。

抵達Žďár nad Sázavou的時候已近中午，沒想到公車午休中，下一班車是一小時後。想著等一下要趕回布拉格搭飛機返英，分秒必爭，我提著身上十幾公斤的行李往綠山Zelená hora朝聖。
When I reached Žďár nad Sázavou, it was nearly noon. Bus service was at its lunch break and the next bus was an hour later. I got to save time because I had to rush back to Prague to catch the flight back to Glasgow. Without hesitation, I carried all my belonging, which weighted more than 10kg, towards the Green Hill (Zelená hora).

我逗著被放在腳踏車籃裡的嬰兒，循著小路走向Kroměříž 城堡。

聖彼得保羅大教堂 Katedrala sv. Petra a Pavla 聳立在天際線，想不注意都難。

這九月份的旅程把據點放在布諾上。剛到布諾的公車站便為它的先進而喝采，過了馬路就是大型百貨公司，當我掛失的盥洗用品還沒找到前，我就先到百貨公司補貨囉。
My trip in September was based in Brno. When I first arrived at Brno Bus Terminal, I was impressed with its technology. Across the road was a huge shopping mall. Before my lost luggage was found, I went to "top up" my supply there.

我在等車時間好好練習Hradec Králové的發音，公車司機終於聽得懂了，沒有重犯聽不懂Litomyšl發音的糗事。While waiting for the bus, I practised the pronounciation of Hradec Králové. The driver could understand me! At least I did not repeat the embrassment of mispronouncing Litomyšl.

我坐公車回到東波希米亞小鎮Litomyšl，是以往波希米亞和摩拉維亞的重要Trstenice貿易之路上的重鎮。也許是因為九一一的關係，剛抵達時雨勢不小。仗著Litomyšl遊客中心以服務周到聞名，我厚著臉皮請他們保管行李，服務人員二話不說就收起來了，還很驕傲地說明他們中午沒午休可以領件。﹝這一部份就不方便翻譯了﹞

我在Brno路邊買了一點零食，就坐車前往Mikulov，德文為Nikolsburg。她的名字讓我想起日文的牛奶，我就一路上打瞌睡夢想著牛奶，直到一位穿著破舊的驗票員把我搖醒。我再也無法入睡，覺得公車繞了幾十分鐘都是果園，仔細一看，到處都是結實的葡萄果樹！我來到酒莊了！

跨到對街來到猶太區，有許多美麗的羊腸小徑

在和同車人確認沒搭錯車，我從特奇前往特熱比奇的公車上開始打起瞌睡。途中的村莊來了一位巨人，他至少有兩公尺高，身後背著的大型登山包也變得好像是書包，我猜他是德國或是美國人，他卻以標準發音說他要去特熱比奇，那還是比較像德國人吧！鬧鐘一響我馬上就按掉，心想眼前的巨人一下車我就跟著下車，好像才沒闔眼多久，我就被剛剛我問路的太太叫醒：『特熱比奇到了』，我整個人被嚇出一身汗，我還以為是強盜！我和太太道謝，衷心感謝著摩拉維亞人的貼心。
I checked with the travellers at the same bus stop that I was about to board the right bus from Telč to Třebíč. I felt more comfortable snoozing on the bus then. A giant boarded the bus at a village during the journey. He was at least 2m tall. His enormous haversack looked like a normal backpack on him. I thought he was either German or American. After he asked for a ticket to Třebíč in a perfect accent, I thought he was more likely to be the former. I turned off my alarm as soon as it rang, thinking that I would alight with him. It only seems moments after I closed my eyes, I heard a voice saying "It's Třebíč!" It was from the lady whom I had asked for a direction. I thought she was a robber! I thanked her gratefully as I was touched by the warm-hearted Moravians.

在布拉格Roztyly公車站趕搭早上0620的公車去特奇，卻苦找不到站牌。我拿著旅遊書向路人指著Telč唸特可，沒有人理我。當我快絕望時，我找一位中年婦女問路，她才糾正我正確唸法是特奇。我誇獎她英文好，她說應該的，因為她是英文老師，那這樣的話她的英文其實不怎麼樣呢！難怪Morag抱怨學生程度差。她本來要帶我去我的站牌，卻看到她的公車到了就匆匆逃離，我感到莫名奇妙，請她指示站牌的方向，原來就在不遠處。抵達特奇時，只有我一名遊客。我拿著Lonely Planet的地圖跟著走，一不小心走300公尺就走出城了。原來特奇這麼小！我回頭一看，就看到明信片常看到的景色！

阿姆斯特丹安妮的家和布拉格的猶太區的啟蒙，讓我更了解戰爭、宗教和種族歧視的恐怖。當然，從小到大都有在教科書上看到，但是震撼的程度遠遠比不上親眼目睹。學妹勸我不要去這種陰氣重的地方，因為我的體質十分敏感，但是我就是忍不住想去哀悼那些無辜的受害者。當然現在認識外星姊後，發現第六感比我靈的人大有所在。我相信只要存有善心，孤魂野鬼也不會忍心纏我太久﹝好鬼會幫我擋掉壞鬼吧﹞。Morag是個十分隨和的遊伴，從來不會勉強任何人去任何景點，當她知道我也對猶太人的歷史有興趣﹝只要不用考試我就有興趣﹞時，興奮地發現終於有人和她臭氣相投了。
Anne Frank's House in Amsterdam and the Jewish Quarter in Prague gave me a shocking lesson about the horrors of wars, religious conflicts and racial discrimination. Indeed, we have been taught all these at school. However, it is always more realistic to see it for yourselves. Reenee asked me not to visit such gruesome places as I am very sentive to all sorts of spirits. However, I simply could not help to mourn over the victims. Now I have met G4alien who has got a much stronger sixth sense than I am. I believe that as long as you have a kind heart, any spirits will not disturb you for long (well, the good ones will stop the bad ones). Morag was a very easygoing friend who never forces anyone to visit any particular attrations. When she knew that I was also interested in Jewish history (As long as I don't have to go through any examinations), she was excited that she has found a buddy.

1348年當查理斯四世建設布拉格新鎮時，他發願要開發一個能媲美舊城廣場的新廣場：查理斯廣場。當時是歐洲最大的廣場，現在還是布拉格最大的廣場，有4.63公頃大。查理斯廣場以前稱為牛市場，除了賣牛，也買木炭、醃魚。以往廣場中有木塔一年展覽皇冠一次，之後木塔在1393改建為禮拜堂，可惜在1784年被摧毀。由於地質泥濘，在1874年廣場被轉型成公園。

在布拉格的捷運站皆是The Painted Veil的海報，我十分喜歡它的取景，沒想到在沒有溝通的狀況下Morag決定一起去看，這就是緣分吧。