Ariella

我在Brno路邊買了一點零食，就坐車前往Mikulov，德文為Nikolsburg。她的名字讓我想起日文的牛奶，我就一路上打瞌睡夢想著牛奶，直到一位穿著破舊的驗票員把我搖醒。我再也無法入睡，覺得公車繞了幾十分鐘都是果園，仔細一看，到處都是結實的葡萄果樹！我來到酒莊了！
I bought some munchies from Brno and took a bus to Mikulov whose German name is Nikolburg. Her name reminds me of the Japanese pronounciation of milk. Thus, I dreamed of milk along the way until a ticket inspector in shabby clothes woke me up. I could not sleep anymore and felt that the bus had been touring around some orchards. I looked closely and realised they were grapes! I was in the vineyards!

抬頭一看意外看到美麗的城堡聳立在山丘上
To my surprise, I found a beautiful castle up on the hill.

我從公車站邊走邊看，卻不小心走錯了路。我越來越有膽像捷克人問路，阿伯竟然問我會不會講德文，然後就批哩拍拉用德文和我解釋，我只聽得懂『車』，加上比手劃腳，還真的讓我走對路！Mikulov位於奧地利邊界，大多數居民都說德文。
I was looking around the scenary since I arrived at the bus station, but I found myself lost. My courage to approach the Czechs grew. The uncle even asked if I spoke German and explained everything in German even I did not really speak German. Well, I could understand "Auto" and with some gestures, I found the right path! In fact, most residents in Mikulov speak German due to its proximity to Austria.

剛抵達時廣場擠滿了遊客，還有捷克阿伯在表演爵士樂，街上皆是賣酒和Burcák的店家。
When I arrived at the Namesti, it was packed with tourists. Czech folks played Jazz, and there were stalls selling wine and Burcák.

Mikulov Loreta 教堂是樞機主教Dietrichstein所建，他們過世後原本是葬在這哩，但是多年來的戰爭和大火摧毀了一切，重建後的教堂還是沒有恢復Loreta的風光。
Church of Mikulov Loreta was built by the Cardinal Dietrichstein. It also serves as a burial ground from them. However, years of wars and fire destroyed everything. The church has not regained its beauty since.

城堡的入口處正在整修中Entrance to the castle was under repair.

從城堡花園仰望這巨大的城堡Looking up to the huge castle from the castle garden

無意間看到這趣味屋頂效倣城堡，真佩服捷克人的創意
I found this cute rooftop interesting. I really admired Czechs' creativity.

從城堡山看城堡花園和聖山Svatém kopečku.
From the Chateau hill over the castle garden and the Holly Hill Svatém kopečku

左方的聖瓦次拉夫教堂Kostel sv.Václava和聖山上的聖夕巴斯汀教堂Kostel sv. Šebestiána
Church of St Wenceslas (Kostel sv.Václava) on the left and Church of St Sebastian (SKostel sv. Šebestiána) on the Holy Hill.

城堡裡展示著另類的雕像，這是耶穌扛著十字架.
The castle hosts many unique exhibitions. This was "Jesus carrying the Cross."

空氣裡飄來美妙的爵士樂，溫暖的陽光，漫步在芳香的城堡空中花園，實在是享受
A walk in the fragrant garden with warm sunshine and jazz in the air. What a luxury!

原本計畫要去的Valtice-Lednice遺蹟因為交通不便只好取消，我就在城堡裡晃。城堡內部略為簡陋，已被改為博物館，裡面也只有捷文和德文的說明。
My initial plan to Valtice-Lednice was cancelled due to the lack of transportation. I decided to have a close look of the castle. The interior was rather simplified and the castle was the home of a museum. Even the explanation was in Czech and German.

原來德軍在1945年撤軍時把整座城堡都炸毀！我看著當時的照片，城堡裡面剩下幾片柱子！可惜我在網路上只找到這一張，震撼力不夠。城堡裡還有幾張戰前的照片無力地宣揚當時的輝煌。原來今日站在這裡的是人民努力重建的結果，我不禁動容。
In fact, the retreating Germans bombed the entire castle in 1945 and left a few pillars! I could only find this picture from the internet but its impact was totally inadequate. There were a few photographs showing the castle prior to the war, demonstrating its previous glory. Now it stood the castle rebuilt by the people and this really made me feel touched.

保存下來的只有1643年的巨大酒桶，能容納101000公升，據說是歐洲最大的。
This giant wine barrel from 1643 survived through the war. Its capacity was 1010 hectolitres. Apparently it was the largest in Europe.

只可惜酒桶得了乾腐病。Unfortunately it suffers from dry rot.

午餐在比手畫腳點菜後的U Rytířů解決
I used gestures to order my lunch at U Rytířů

然後前往猶太區 Then I headed to the Jewish Quarter.

猶太區大部分都已摧毀，只剩下這一座舊猶太教堂
Most of the Jewish buildings were destroyed and this Old Synagogue survived.

樓下男性教徒聚會處，樓上是女性教徒的
The ground floor was for male worshippers while the upstair gallery was for females.

在路上遇到一群瑞典遊客，把我帶到一位落魄酒醉的藝術家面前領猶太墓園的鑰匙。這時候起風了，烏雲也慢慢密佈。不知道是不是一個人逛墓園，還是變天的關係，我心中起了莫名的恐懼感，覺得這裡有不安的靈魂。我快步離開走向後方的音樂。
I met a group fo Swedish tourists who brought me to a drunk declasse artist that keeps the keys to the Jewish Cemetery. Just then the wind started, clouds gathered. I was not sure it was the fear to walk around the cemetry on my own, or the decline in weather, I had a sense of impending fear. I could feel uneasiness here. I quickly left for the music behind.

墓園附近就是白羊山Kozí vrch了，回頭一看看到童話故事般的城堡
Next to the cemetery was the Goat Hill Kozí vrch. I looked back and spotted the picturesque castle.

白羊山的地形奇特，卻是攝影的最佳地點
The landscape at the Goat Hill was bizzare but was the best place for photography.

令人窒息的景色 A breathtaking view

城堡右方的街道是剛剛經過的猶太區，左方是鎮中心
On the right hand side of the castle was the Jewish Quarter. On the left was the Town centre.

我爬到懸崖上大聲呼喚『愛，你在哪裡？』﹝註：風太大了地形又不穩，整張失焦﹞
I climbed up the cliff and shouted "Where are you, my love?" (PS: It was far too windy and slopy that my whole photo lost focus)

我繞到鎮後的酒莊嘉年華，再繞到聖山腳下看看美麗的小鎮。
I walked past the festival at the wineyards and then below the Holy Hill.


雖然天空飄起了雨，我的腿也因為多日行走開始發酸，也微微發燒了幾天，但離公車時間還有兩小時，我便開始爬聖山﹝是的，我玩起來就不顧自己﹞。這裡是保護區，連登山腳踏車都不能用。
Although it was drizzling, my legs were sore from days of walking, and I had a mild fever for days, it was still 2 hours before the next bus and I decided to climb this Holy Hill (Yes, once I start playing I forgot myself). This was a protected zone that bikes were also forbidden.

一路上都是雕像敘訴著聖經裡的故事
The Way of the Cross was lined up with statues telling the stories from the Bible.

回頭一看，左方是城堡，右方是白羊山，我要把Mikulov玩遍了。
I looked back again and found the castle on the left, Goat Hill on the right. I had conquered the whole Mikulov.

聖山十分陡峭，強風更是讓我寸步難行。一路上還看到一對老夫妻互相攙扶著爬山，我也覺得好感動，止不住地感傷。
This Holy Hill was very steep and the strong winds did not help. I met an elderly couple helping each other on the way up. I felt very touched and could not stop my own sorrow.

快到頂端了，奇岩怪景真的位於聖山It was nearly the top. Very strange landscape.

聖夕巴斯汀教堂Kostel sv. Šebestiána就好像在天邊。
Church of St Sebestian seemed to be at the edge of heaven.

從聖山頂看著整個小鎮，還有兩公里外的奧地利，我覺得自己很幸福，這意外中經過的小鎮，成為我這次旅程最美好的回憶。城堡後那格格不入的工廠，其實就是Mikulov的商業酒廠。
I looked over the town and Autria 2km away from the top of Holy Hill. I felt that I was so lucky to pass by this little town. It was the best memory of my September trip. The pathetic factory behind the castle was the local commercial distillery.


我走回小鎮中心，看大家手裡都一杯Burcák，我也買了一杯喝喝，好甜美。老闆娘說它是發酵過的葡萄汁，即是半成的酒。我很相信他們家傳的酒窖的品質，買了一瓶沒喝過的酒準備帶回英國請朋友。等車的當時來的一通電話，原來是Brno的民宿說我遺失的行李已經抵達。她們其實沒有必要特地打電話給我，我很感謝她們的溫情，就快樂地踏上回途之旅。結果回程的車上我覺得我醉了，下車還是行走踉蹌。哈哈哈！
I returned to the town centre and found everyone with a cup of Burcák. I also had a cup and it was delicious! The brewer lady told me that it was fermented grape juice which was the half-finished wine! I trusted the quality of their family brewery and bought a bottle of wine for my British friends. While I was waiting for the bus, my pension at Brno called and told me that my lost lugagge had arrived. They did not have to call me but I was very moved by their warm hearts. I left Mikulov happily but felt that I was drunk on the way back. When I left the bus I was still staggering! Hahaha.

引申閱讀Further reading: Mikulov 官方網站Official Website

後記PS：回到Brno發現我的右腿內側有奇怪的瘀青，像在馬來西亞撞邪遇到的一樣！ when I returned to Brno I discovered a strange-shaped bruise on my inner right thigh. It looked similar to the one I had when I met an evil spirit in Malaysia.