Ariella

Olomouc建於1017年，是Přemysl皇族在大摩拉維亞帝國時期的首都，也是宗教的中心，此市政廳建於14世紀。Olomouc遭胡思戰爭、三十年戰爭和瑞典戰爭重創，結果首都地位從此拱手讓給Brno。18世紀時，Olomouc繼續成長，由於長期和薩爾斯堡交流，Olomouc擁進了許多德國人。
Olomouc was founded in 1017. It was the capital of the Great Moravian Empire of the Přemysl family. It was also the centre of religion. This city hall was built in the 14th century.  Olomouc was badly damaged by the Hussite war, 30 years' war and the Swedish troops so it lost its supremacy to Brno. In the 18th century, Olomouc continued to develop. Due to its relationship with Salzburg, many Germans settled in.

第二次世界大戰末期德軍撤退經過時，把市政廳完全炸毀。戰後的捷克受共產影響，重建了天文鐘，卻把聖人娃娃改成勞工。
When German troops were retreating through Olomouc at the end of WWII, they bombed the entire City Hall down. The communists flooded in thereafter and reconstructed the clock with statues of labourers insteads of saints.

中午12點的鐘聲最有花樣，宣示著『勤儉建國』的決心。
The chime at 12 noon was the best, calling the country for "saving up to build the country."

上方廣場Horní nám的三位一體聖柱Sloup Nejsvětější Trojice 建於1754年，有35米高，是UNESCO的世界遺蹟。每天還有修女在裡面用各國語言介紹聖柱。
The 35m-tall Holy Trinity Column (Sloup Nejsvětější Troijice) at the Upper Square (Horní nám) was built in 1754. It was one of the UNESCO World Heritage. You can see a nun explaining the history of the column using various languages inside the column.

聖柱的雕工細緻，規模之龐大，是世界難得一見。沒有因為世界大戰被炸垮，我還真的很佩服。
Its craftsman and scale were so impressive that it was rare to see elsewhere in the world. I was even more impressed that it was not destroyed by the world wars.

來到Olomouc，你會發現這裡的人十分喜歡依希臘傳說蓋噴泉。這是我最喜歡的Arion噴泉，傳說中海豚解救了歌唱中的Arion.
When you visit Olomouc, you will realise that the people here love to build fountains based on Greek myths. This was my favourite Arion Fountain which described how the dolphine saving the singing Arion.

噴泉前的烏龜是給小孩玩的，我也迷信地摸了摸牠的頭，希望會帶來好運。
The turtle in front of the fountain was for kids. I also rubbed his head superstitiously and hoped that this would bring me luck.

凱撒噴泉，據說Olomouc是凱撒大帝成立的。
Caesar Fountain was based on the legend that Julius Caesar founded Olomouc.

大力士噴泉Hercules Fountain

下方廣場Dolní náměstí 的瑪麗安柱紀念瘟疫受害者
Marian Column in the Lower Square (Dolní náměstí) commemorated plague victims.

海神和他的父親時間對抗Neptune fought with his father, Time.

宙斯噴泉Jupiter Fountain

水星噴泉Mercury Fountain

崔坦噴泉Triton Fountain

聖約翰Sarkander活水泉上的蛇代表撒旦，十字架楔子代表永生
The snakes represent evil while the wedges of crucification represnt eternity at the "St. Jan Sarkander Spring of Living Water" Fountain.

聖約翰Sarkander禮拜堂原是囚禁約翰Sarkander致死的監獄，裡面有特別的燈籠和圓梯造型，可惜沒開放。
The Chapel of St. Jan Sarkander was the prison of Jan Sarkander who died there. It had an unique lantern roof and oval staircase but was not open when I visited.

宙斯噴泉後的聖瑪莉天使報喜教堂 Church of Annunciation of the Virgin Mary behind the Jupiter Fountain

巨大的聖邁可教堂暨修道院有一副珍貴的畫像：懷孕中的聖母
The huge church of St Michael had a precious portrait of the pregnany Virgin Mary.

聖邁可修道院裡的巴洛克裝飾精緻地不像話 The Baroque monastery was unbelievably delicate.

聖邁可教堂也美麗到令人驚嘆 The church itself was a piece of fine art.

聖摩立滋教堂 (Kostel sv. Mořice) 是15世紀的古老建築，有不對稱的尖塔
St. Moritz Church (Kostel sv. Mořice) was a 15th century building with asymmetrical towers.

它的管風琴是全歐洲最大一座，每年九月都會舉辦世界管風琴大賽。參賽者好像在練習，我也貪婪地坐在教堂欣賞音樂，我拿起手機偷偷撥給遠方的妹妹﹝可惜她沒聽到﹞。
Its organ is the mightiest in Europe. The World Organ Competition is held here every September. The participant seemed to be practising while I enjoyed the music downstairs. I also secretly called my sister on my phone (too bad she did not get it).

雪中聖母瑪莉教堂是大學附屬的教堂，我剛抵達時沒開放，再次經過時發現剛好是中午禮拜時間，我趕上彌撒，感動地欣賞它的內部，可惜彌撒一過就被趕走了。
The Church of the Virgin Mary of the Snow belongs to the university. When I first arrived it was closed. I managed to enter during the mass session at noon. I was still admiring its beautiful interior before I was chased away at the end of the mass.

對面的自然博物館 The Natural Science Museum opposite.

聖瓦次拉夫教堂是Olomouc第一座羅馬教堂，也是捷克第二高的
St Wenceslas Cathedral (Katedrála svatého Václava) was the first Romanesque church in Olomouc, and the second tallest in the Czech Republic.


Přemysl皇宮顯示主教居處和比布拉格教堂還美麗的裝飾。右方是聖安禮拜堂。
Přemysl Palace exhibits the Bishop's rooms which are more beautiful than Prague Castle. On the right stands the Chapel of St Ann.

聖Gorazd教堂St Gorazd Church

城堡修道院剛好關閉Hradisko Monastery was closed at the time of my visit.

聖山上的聖母探望教堂離Olomouc有一段距離，我沒有去拜訪。
The Basilica Minor Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary on Svatý Kopeček (The Holy Hill) was near Olomouc but I did not pay a visit there.

軍械庫Armoury

我看看時間，不到下午兩點，Olomouc十分寒冷，已經降到了八度。我把行李裡面所有的衣物都穿在身上，圍著蘇格蘭羊毛圍巾，淋著毛毛細雨，踩著不經意落下的葉子。秋天要到了嗎？我不經意地哼起了Eternal Flame：
I looked at the time, not yet 2pm. Olomouc was very cold as it was around 8oC. I put on all the clothes I had from my luggage, wrapped myself up with Scottish woolen scarf. With the drizzling rain, fallen leaves, has autumn arrived? Without intention, I started singing Eternal Flame:

Close your eyes, give me your hand, darling
Do you feel my heart beating, do you understand?
Do you feel the same, am I only dreaming?
Is this burning an eternal flame?

I believe it's meant to be, darling
I watch when you are sleeping, you belong to me
Do you feel the same, am I only dreaming
Or is this burning an eternal flame?

Say my name, sun shines through the rain
A whole life so lonely, and then you come and ease the pain
I don't want to lose this feeling

Say my name, sun shines through the rain
A whole life so lonely, and then you come and ease the pain
I don't want to lose this feeling

Close your eyes and give me your hand
Do you feel my heart beating, do you understand?
Do you feel the same, am I only dreaming
Or is this burning an eternal flame? 

我四處尋覓，旅遊書上的網咖都倒閉了，大大小小的教堂不見得有開放，大部分是我厚臉皮去開門才發現柳暗花明有一村。心中覺得很掃興，原本以為Olomouc是布拉格之外的第二大文化古都，但是卻吝嗇把自己藏了起來，難怪一直默默無名。我慵懶地走回上方廣場，點了咖啡和甜味披薩，觀察著廣場上的人，寫明信片回家。我突然想起了我的好遊伴Morag，如果她在就不會這麼無聊了。
I searchd around but all the recommended internet cafes were shut for good. Not all the churches were open. I had to force myself to open the door of every church. I felt disappointed. Initially I thought Olomouc was the second largest historical city after Prague but it was hidding itself secretively that no one was aware of its existence. I walked back to the Upper Square lazily, ordered some coffee and sweet pizza, people-watching and wrote some postcards. I suddenly missed my old friend Morag. Wish she were here.

我孤獨地走回民宿，也許該慶幸的是這是Olomouc最美麗的小巷，民宿對面就是最好吃的餐廳。一進入餐廳又是滿堂的注目禮，我已經受夠了。四周都是德國人，我和觀察我的人點了點頭，大方地點了一道捷克菜和無酒精啤酒。味道真的不錯，我的精神又來了，打算夜遊Olomouc，結果上方廣場也只打暗燈，又下起了傾盆大雨，一片蕭條。
I walked back to the Pension alone. Perhaps I should be glad that I stayed at the most beautiful street in Olomouc with the best restaurant opposite. Once I stepped into the restaurant I was greeted with everyone's eyes. I had enough. I was surrounded by Germans! I nodded at them and ordered my Czech dinner and non-alcoholic beer happily. The delicious food brought my spirit back. I decided to do a night tour. Unfortunately the Upper Square was lit by dim light and it was pouring. It was just sad....

我的歌有了回應There were answers for my song:
You don't feel my heart beating. You don't understand.
You don't feel the same. I am only dreaming.
This is not an eternal flame. 

You come and ease the pain and leave again.
I have lost this feeling.....

今夜，我不想一個人在這裡....
Tonight, I don't want to be alone...