Ariella

我坐公車回到東波希米亞小鎮Litomyšl，是以往波希米亞和摩拉維亞的重要Trstenice貿易之路上的重鎮。也許是因為九一一的關係，剛抵達時雨勢不小。仗著Litomyšl遊客中心以服務周到聞名，我厚著臉皮請他們保管行李，服務人員二話不說就收起來了，還很驕傲地說明他們中午沒午休可以領件。﹝這一部份就不方便翻譯了﹞
I took a bus back to the town of Litomyšl in Eastern Bohemia. It was an important town along the Trstenice trade path between Bohemia and Moravia. The rain was quite heavy when I arrived so I left my luggage at the friendly tourist information centre. They were very proud that they still open during lunch time.

爵士之屋Dům U Rytířů是史麥塔納廣場重要的文化復興遺蹟，除了爵士外，還有學生、商人、人魚，獅子和獨角獸等雕像。
The Knights' Hall (Dům U Rytířů) on Smetanovo náměstí had a Renaissance facade with statues of knights, a student, a merchant, a mermaid, a lion and a unicorn.
 
這時候雨勢加大了，我躲在屋簷下找雨傘翻地圖，突然身後有一位阿伯和我打招呼，把我嚇了一跳。他很快樂地用捷克文和我交談，問我是不是日本人，我很驕傲地說我是台灣人，他有一點驚訝，看到我拿的地圖也很熱心地指點我要爬上山去找城堡。
Just then the rain got heavier. I hid underneath a roof looking for my umbrella and looking through the map. Suddenly an old man greeted me from behind. He gave me a fright! He happily asked me in Czech if I were a Japanese. I was very proud to say that I was from Taiwan. He was surprised. He also eagerly told me to climb up the hill before I could see the Chateau.

來自Mikulov的教師們來此成立Piarist 發現聖十字教堂，並開創學校教育貧苦兒童。
Teachers from Mikulov set up Piarist Church of the Discovery of the Holy Cross and a grammer school for the poor children.

可惜它已年久失修，初步整修後仍不對外開放。
It was in such a derelict state that it was not open to the public despite restoration.

史麥塔納博物館紀念這位在Litomyšl出生的作曲家
Smetana Museum remembers the famous composer from Litomyšl

美麗的Litomyšl城堡建於1568~1581，是之前主教的文藝復興宮殿。它保存完好的八千多幅壁畫讓它被列入世界遺蹟之一。
This Renaissance Litomyšl Chateau was built in 1568~1581. It used to be the former Bishop's palace. As it features more than eight thousand original graffiti, it was entered in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List.
 
城堡，甚至整個小鎮都是藝術品。The chateau, even the whole town was full of art works.
 
城堡外的時鐘A clock outside the chateau.
 
另外一座時鐘Another clock.

壁畫Graffiti
 
城堡裡有一座18世紀劇院，是史麥塔納第一次演奏鋼琴的地點。Litomyšl各地在六月底舉辦國際歌劇節，可惜我錯過了。
There was an 18th century theatre in the chateau where Smetana performed his piano debut. In fact, Litomyšl holds an International Opera Festival every June. Unfortunately I missed it.
 
英文解說説得不清不楚，同行的兩位比利時人也糊塗了。
The English explantation was so vague that these Belgium tourists were confused, too.
 
史麥塔納出身於城堡對面的釀酒廠，是酒廠主人之子
Smetana was born at the brewery opposite the chateau, the son of the brewer.
 
也許不是旺季，城堡看起來有一點蕭條
Perhaps it was the peak season, the chateau looked depressed.
 
當我走到修道院公園，聽著史麥塔納的〈我的祖國〉，看著Piarist教堂，一切已經雨過天晴了
When I stepped into the Convent Garden, listened to Smetana's My Country, looked at the Piarist Church, the sun had arrived.

舉聖十字長老教會Church of the Raising of the Holy Cross and presbytery
 
史麥塔納沒有料想到他對故鄉的影響吧？可惜他得了梅毒影響了聽力，後期還引發精神病，在精神病院過餘生。Smetana might not have expected his influence on his hometown. Unfortunately he suffered from syphillis which caused deafness and then psychosis. He spent his late life in a mental hospital.

市政廳Town Hall

 Litomyšl和其他捷克傳統小鎮一樣，到處都是有創意的作品
Litomyšl, similar to other traditional Czech towns, was lined up with creative works.
 
這只是一些例子These were a few of the examples.

Josef Váchal是一位孩子氣的詩人、畫家、設計師和印刷師。他反抗著共產主義，過著不為五斗米折腰的生活。所以他的作品尚未被世人接受。
Josef Váchal was an idiosyncratic poet, painter, graphic designer and prinet. He resisted Communism and led to a life drinking snowwater and leftover food. Thus his art has not been appreciated by the world.
 
Litomyšl曾是他的畫布Litomyšl used to be his canvas.
 
卡通人骨畫像Cantoon-like pictures.

Josef Portman一直很欣賞Josef Váchal的作品，邀請他來Litomyšl作客，把Portmoneum轉換成Josef Váchal發揮的天堂。Josef Portman always admired Josef Váchal's work so he invited Josef Váchal's to Litomyšl and converted Portmoneum into the latter's art heaven
 
看的出左邊是衣櫃，右邊門裡的是床嗎？Can you tell that there was a cupboard on the left and a bed on the right?

實用訊息Practical Information：景點開放時間和票價Opening time and prices of tourist attractions

 引申閱讀Further reading: Litomyšl官方網站Official website