在布拉格Roztyly公車站趕搭早上0620的公車去特奇,卻苦找不到站牌。我拿著旅遊書向路人指著Telč唸特可,沒有人理我。當我快絕望時,我找一位中年婦女問路,她才糾正我正確唸法是特奇。我誇獎她英文好,她說應該的,因為她是英文老師,那這樣的話她的英文其實不怎麼樣呢!難怪Morag抱怨學生程度差。她本來要帶我去我的站牌,卻看到她的公車到了就匆匆逃離,我感到莫名奇妙,請她指示站牌的方向,原來就在不遠處。抵達特奇時,只有我一名遊客。我拿著Lonely Planet的地圖跟著走,一不小心走300公尺就走出城了。原來特奇這麼小!我回頭一看,就看到明信片常看到的景色!
I went to Prague Roztyly Station to catch a bus departing at 0620. However, I could not find the bus stop. I pointed at the word Telč in my travel book and asked for the direction of "Tel-k" but no one wanted to help. When I was about to give up, I asked a middle-aged woman again. She corrected that the pronounication should be "Tel-ch." I praised her for her fluent English and she replied that she should be good because she was an English teacher. In fact, her English was so-so for an English teacher. No wonder Morag complained about the standard of some students. Initially she was bringing me to the bus stop. When she saw her bus, she just fled! I had no clue what she was doing and asked her to point a direction. Fortunately, my bus stop was not far in front. When I arrived in Telč, I was the only tourist! I followed the map from Lonely Planet and accidentally walked out of the town after 300m. What a small town Telč was! I turned back and saw this beautiful scene from postcards!
Kostel sv.Ducha聖靈教堂原本是羅馬式建築改建成哥德式,它是國王管家所屬,它的羅馬塔樓是特奇最古老的建設。此教堂後期改成醫院附屬的禮拜堂。Kostel sv.Ducha, Church Of The Holy Spirit was originally a Romanesque church then Gothic. Its Romanesque tower was the oldest architecture in Telč. It was the first seat of the king`s steward and later converted into a hospital chapel.
特奇是捷克眾多的UNESCO教科文組織世界遺蹟之ㄧ,卻只見到許多東方遊客,西方遊客好像不來這一套。Telč was one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. I saw more Eastern Asian tourists but very few Caucasians.
依據傳說,當摩拉維亞奧圖公爵二世戰勝了捷克伯拉第斯拉瓦伯爵,他開發了特奇古鎮。在十四世紀Menhart of Hradec建造了城堡、哥德式市場和兩旁的人造池。According to the legend, Moravian Duke Otto II defeated Czech Duke Břetislav and built Telč Old Town. In the 14th century, Menhart of Hradec constructed the chateau, Gothic marketplace and two artificial ponds.
從Ulický池橋上拍的特奇Telč from the bridge over Ulický Pond
城堡,又名水中別墅,是一座夢幻的文藝復興作品,眺望著魚池
The Chateau, known as the Water Chateau, was a visionary Renaissance work overlooking the ponds.
據說內部十分美麗 The interiors were beatifully kept.
但是我時間不足,也看夠城堡了But I had no time and had seen enough of Chateaus.
城堡的庭院 Lawn
有幾位學生穿著中古世紀服裝在練習射箭、射擊
A few students who dressed in medieval costume, were practising archery and shooting.
城堡的聖喬治禮拜堂美鑾美奐Ornate Chapel of St George Kostel sv. Jiří
想必這就是聖喬治先生吧 I think this was St George
這裡葬有城堡的發源者Here lies the remains of the chateau's founder, Zachariáš of Hradec
這些學生在禮拜堂裡面練直笛,別有一番風味。
These students were practising recorders in the Chapel, which was special.
特奇的鎮旗在耶穌會信徒學院外飄揚
The flag of Telč was flying outside the Jesuit College
我走進耶穌聖名教堂裡,一群中學生在二樓練聖歌,一樓還有一位耐心的父親教導兒子教堂的歷史。雖然我聽不懂捷克文,但聖歌的彌彌之音感動了我。當歌曲結束時,我不禁鼓掌喝采,又突然想起在這種古老教堂裡拍手可能不敬,可惜太晚了,一群遊客也跟著我鼓掌起來,二樓的學生們紛紛探頭往下看我們,並投以微笑,我想,我們對聖歌的肯定應該會被寬恕吧?
I stepped into the Church of the Holy Name of Jesus when a group of students were singing hymns on the upper floor. There was a patient father teaching his son about the history of the church on the ground floor. Although I did not understand Czech, the chants had moved me. When the hymn finished, I could not wait to clap for them. Suddenly I realised that it might not be polite to clap in this traditional church. However, it was too late. All the tourists started to clap after me. The students peeked down from above with bright smiles. I thought we might be forgiven as we showed our appreciation for the hymns.
耶穌聖名教堂的前方,後面是聖詹姆士教堂
The front of the Church of Holy name of Jesus. At the back was the Church of St James.
中間的城堡其實不太起眼The chateau in the middle did not look outstanding.
街上有很多老人在練喇叭Many elderlies practised trumpets here on the street.
一個不知名的節日,大家都穿得很復古,然後騎腳踏車環鎮。
An unknown festival when everyone dressed 50s. Then they cycled around the old town.
1530年的一場大火毀了特奇,主人下令把小鎮改建成像城堡一樣的文藝復興式。A fire in 1530 destroyed Telč. The Lord ordered a reconstruction of the town in the Renaissance style as in the chateau.
這古鎮和城堡皆屬於世界遺跡This old town and the castle belonged to the World Heritage Sites.
只可惜我一抵達特奇就開始下雨,加上我昨晚和今早都沒進食,又沒時間去吃著名披薩,我只好隨便拍拍囉。Unfortunately it started raining as soon as I arrived in Telč. I had not had anything to eat from the previous night but I had no time to try the famous pizza. Thus, I only took random pictures.
對天氣失望的我和特奇揮別了。I was totally disappointed in the weather and bid farewell to Telč.
在公車總站火車站附近有這一道特別的牆。我在公車總站等車,順便啃剛剛在麵包店買的食物,這時候從布拉格的公車帶來的三位時髦的東方女性,穿著短裙高跟鞋,拖著行李箱,吃力地走在石子地。她們東張西望,一看就知道迷路的樣子,我看她們的打扮都覺得冷,氣溫低於十度呢!我突然想到自己為什麼旅行沒有艷遇,因為我都是穿牛仔褲登山鞋背背包,我十分擔心曼陀珠事件﹝就是鞋跟卡在石頭縫,還要把另一邊鞋根拔掉的麻煩事﹞。以前有聽聞日本女性出國有意結識外國人,我終於見識到了。有一位穿著普通﹝T恤牛仔褲﹞的捷克男士跑去和她們打交道,她們不理他,走來我們的站牌問路,我指了方向,她們道謝後離去,但是這捷克男士還是窮追不捨地跟上去,祝她們好運吧!
This was a wall near the bus terminal and the train station. I was chewing the bread I bought while waiting for my next bus. Just then a bus from Prague brought three modern Asian ladies. They dressed in short skirts and high heels and carried luggage trolleys. It seemed extremely difficult for them to walk on the cobble stones. They kept looking around and it was so obvious that they were lost. I felt cold just by looking at them. It was below 10oC! Suddenly I realised why I had not encountered any romance during my trips. Because I always dress in jeans and boots and carry a backpack. I was too scared to be the victim in the Mentos Incident (Well, when one heel of your shoes was stuck among the stones and you got to pull out another heel!) I could finally see the "charm" of Japanese tourists! One ordinarily dressed (T-shirt and jeans) Czech man went to help them but they ignored him. They approached us and left after I told them the direction. However, this man still followed them. Well, best of luck for them.
引申閱讀Further readings:特奇官方網站Telč Town Guide, 特奇城堡官方網站State Chateau Telč
- Sep 08 Sat 2007 05:26
[Czech] Telč特奇
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