Ariella

聖彼得保羅大教堂 Katedrala sv. Petra a Pavla 聳立在天際線，想不注意都難。
No one can ever miss out St. Peter & Paul Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Petra a Pavla) at the skyline.

從摩拉維亞博物館仰望Petrov山 Looking over Petrov from the Moravian museum.

左方的入口原本是舊塔，當年被瑞典人摧毀，富人決定把售酒營利的一半撥到重建經費。波蘭皇后公佈說要拜訪布諾時，大家私下覺得又要浪費前招待外賓。沒想到她抵達時引起一陣騷動，原來她的相貌傾國傾城，布諾貴族們爭先恐後討好她，原本她只是要停留幾日，卻待了幾個月。後來終於有理智的人覺得要向皇后收費，沒想到她卻遠走高飛。布諾酒窖裡醇酒已空，舊塔失去了重建的希望。20世紀重建教堂時卻投資在新雙塔，可憐的舊塔就被忽略了。On the left was the old tower which was destroyed by the Swedish. The Burghers decided to put half of their earning from their wine cellars into the reconstruction. When the Queen of Poland announced that she would visit Brno, everyone thought in private that it was a waste to spend money for an outsider. Surprisingly when she arrvied, she caused a stir due to her beauty, youth and friendliness. Aldermen showered her with flowers and wine. Originally she planned to stay for days but ended up staying for months. Finally someone with common senses considered charging the Queen for her expenses, but she was gone by then. Wine cellars were then nearly emptied. There was no resource to rebuilt the old tower. The 20th century reconstruction invested in the two new towers. This poor old tower was neglected.

第一晚到布諾時我飢腸轆轆，本來是想馬上找餐廳果腹的，遍地的壯觀教堂卻讓我分心了。這是抹大拉馬利亞教堂Chrám Máří Magdalény。On my first night in Brno, I was so hungry that I searched around for food. But I was distracted by glorious churches everywhere in Brno. This was the Church of Mary Magdalene (Chrám Máří Magdalény)

我提著行李、脖子掛著相機仰望著壯麗的聖詹姆士教堂Chrám sv Jakuba，裡面正在進行彌撒呢！這是有一位像醉漢的男士匆匆趕到教堂丟掉手上的菸，看了我一眼說turistický﹝捷文：遊客﹞，我嚇傻了竟用蘇格蘭文回他Aye﹝是的﹞。他打個手勢請我進教堂，我也樂於接受，結果他還在門口警告我不能攝影，然後瀟灑地走入群眾裡。我被彌撒裡的氣氛感動了，但是還是不敢相信喝醉的煙槍竟是如此的虔誠。
I carried my luggage with my camera around my neck while I looked up to the imposing Church of St James (Chrám sv Jakuba). A mass was going on. A drunk-looking man hurried to the church, dumped his cigarette, looked at me and said "turistický?" (Czech: Tourist). I was so shocked that I answered back "Aye" (Scottish: Yes). He signalled an invitation into the church, I happily accepted his offer. However, he warned that no photography was allowed and strolled dashingly into the cloud. I was moved by the atmosphere during the mass. But I still could not believe that the drunkard-cum-smoker was so devoted.

向南的窗戶有一個猥褻的小人，和教堂的神聖成強烈對比。據說贊助聖彼得保羅大教堂和聖詹姆士教堂的貴族是死對頭，兩人同時建立教堂，前者有錢有勢，後者有手巧的師傅。後者建設的速度一度領先，前者用勢力打壓後者的師傅，請他走路，師傅說：『等我完成手上的這一面窗戶吧』，當完工揭幕時讓大家嚇了一跳，原來師傅利用這小人的臀部恥笑對面山上的聖彼得保羅大教堂。捷克人都是冷面笑匠呢！
There was an indescent little man at the south-facing window, a strong contract to the holy church. Apparently the lordships on Petrov Hill and at the church of St James had never been friends. They were building churches simultaneously. The former was rich and powerful while the latter had a better master. Construction of Church of St James was leading so that the powerful lordship on Petrov Hill forced the master at the Church of St James to leave. The master agreed: "Let me finish this window." Once it was completed and unveiled, it took everyone by surprise. The smart master had this little man's naked buttock facing the Petrov Hill oppposite. It seems that Czechs can really tell jokes without any warning.

聖麥可教堂Kostel sv Michala位於主日廣場Dominikánské náměstí旁，它的修道院轉行成新市政廳。
Church of St Michael (Kostel sv Michala) was at the Dominical Square. Its monastery was converted into the New Town Hall.

聖湯姆士教堂Kostel sv. Tomáše，旁邊的修道院被改為總督府
Church of St Thomas (Kostel sv. Tomáše). Its monastery next door became the Governor's palace.

一大清早，我走進聖約翰方濟會教堂與修道院 Kostel svatých Janů a minoritský klášter，教堂滿滿地都是禱告的人。In an early morning, I walked into the Church of St John and Minorite Monastery (Kostel svatých Janů a minoritský klášter) and found it filled with worshippers.

聖約瑟教堂是吳甦樂會Ursuline所組 Church of St Joseph was a former Ursuline church.

方濟各聖十字教堂Kostel Nalezení sv kříže的地下室有自然風乾的木乃伊，我剛走進去時一群學生剛好走出來，只剩我一個人和150位乾屍作伴，實在很恐怖！尤其是這些乾屍的面容都還很清楚。我走出來看到一位修道士穿的像星際大戰絕地大師，他正在回絕兩位迷路的遊客，看到我就趕快把門關起來
The crypt at Capuchin Church (Kostel Nalezení sv kříže) housed naturally dried mummies. When I just entered the crypt, a group of students just left. It was scary to be alone with 150 dried corpses especially their expressions were still quite visible. After I stepped out, I saw a monk dressed in capuchin which looked like a Jedi master in Star Wars. He was rejecting two lost tourists. When he saw me, he quickly closed the door   

我一開始到孟德爾廣場找民宿時，差一點要哭了出來。我一出小總站，四週的人都在打量我，我抓緊我的貴重財產觀察，一邊是Starobrno啤酒屋，一邊是集中營般的高樓大廈。When I first arrived at Mendlovo Square looking for the pension, I nearly broke down in despair. As I stepped out of the bus terminal, everyone was staring at me. I grasped my valuables and looked at the Starobrno beerhouse on one side and concentration-camp-like tower blocks.

附近的Mitrovsky夏宮Letohrádek Mitrovských後，就是捷克最大的展覽中心
Behind the Mitrovsky Summer House (Letohrádek Mitrovských) nearby was the largest Exhibition Centre in the Czech Republic.

孟德爾廣場Mendlovo náměstí顧名思義，即是紀念世界聞名的遺傳學祖師孟先生
Mendel Square Mendlovo náměstí remembered the world-renowned founder of Genetics

這裡就是他在修道院裡種豆研發出孟德爾遺傳定律
This was where he grew peas in the monastery and developed the Mendel Law of Inheritance.

原來孟德爾是聖奧古斯丁修道院暨聖瑪莉教堂 Augustiniánský klášter a Bazilika Nanebevzetí Panny Marie 的院長！在右方你可看到布諾城牆。Mendel was the Abbot of Augustinian Monastery and Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady (Augustiniánský klášter a Bazilika Nanebevzetí Panny Marie). On the right you can see the Brno Wall.
 
從城堡看孟德爾廣場和發展中的布諾，教堂右方的修道院就是我居住的地方﹝有停車場處﹞，我每天都從住處仰望城堡。如果你能認得有三角形屋頂的煙囪，那就是布諾的啤酒屋！Looking from the castle towards the Mendelian Square (Mendlovo Nam) and the developing part of Brno, the monastery on the right of the church was where my pension was (near the car park). I looked at the castle from the pension eveeryday I was there. If you can spot the triangular rooftop with a chimney it was the beer house of Brno.

我在民宿每早六點都會聽到修道士敲鐘聲，還曾站在門口看彌撒。可惜這教堂和修道院都要團體事先預約才能觀賞。I could hear the bell every 6am. I even stood at the gate looking at the mass. Unfortunately this church cum monastery can only be visited by group booking in advance.

我從Mikulov微醺地躺在床上拍我第一夜的房間
When I arrived from Mikulov, half drunk, I took this photo while lying on my bed on my first night.

民宿是修道院的一部分，老闆不太會說英文，但是又很和藹。他們的經營方式十分傳統，當我從Hradec Králové提早回布諾時，民宿很早就關門了，我打電話給老闆娘，她用破舊的英文說：『I am sorry. You must wait. 對不起，你必須等』我想捷文沒有中文英文的婉轉用語，因為這不是我第一次聽到他們用『必須』這麼強悍的字眼。The pension I stayed was a part of the monastery. The owners did not speak much English but they were so friendly. Their management method was also very traditional. When I returned earlier from Hradec Králové, the pension was closed. I called the owner lady who said in her limited English "I am sorry. You must wait." I think there is no tactful word as we use in Chinese or English. This was not the first time I heard them using a strong word like "must."
之後的幾夜都是住家庭房﹝這裡離市區較遠，比住市區小房間便宜﹞，這是客廳。I stayed in the family apartment in the following nights. (This is further away from the city centre so this room is cheaper than a small room in the city centre). This is the living room.

這是我的大床！我在這裡過得很修女式的生活，每天五、六點都起來，不過不是去念經，是到處去逛。老闆不知道用什麼方法把床單洗得好香。This is my big bed. I led to a life like a nun here. I got up around 5~6am. However, I did not get up for prayers, I went touring around instead. The owner used a very soothing fragrant to wash the bed sheets.

妹妹送的洗面乳在託運的過程受損，所以我每天都用來泡澡，超享受的！
The facial wash my younger sister gave me was damaged during delivery. Thus, I used it for bathing. What a luxury!

每天的早餐都不一樣，都是自己選的。Breakfast is different everyday as you can choose.

我每天一早都會聽到女性歌唱聲，第一次聽很悽涼，後來就覺得是修女唱聖歌，因為感覺很平靜。現在回想起來，如果孟德爾是院長，表示這是一間男性修道院，那我聽到的是？還是讓有參觀過修道院的人告訴我吧！
I could hear female singing in the morning. Initially I thought it sounded sad. Later it sounded like nuns hymning as it felt peaceful. Looking back, if Mendel used to be the Abbot, it meant that it was a male monastery. So what did I hear? I think I should leave it to those who had visited the monastery.

實用訊息Practical Information: 民宿﹝只有五房要預定﹞Pension (Advise advance booking as there are only 5 rooms)

引申閱讀Further reading: 布諾教堂Churches of Brno, 布諾官方網站Brno Official Website, Tabitito網頁website