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這九月份的旅程把據點放在布諾上。剛到布諾的公車站便為它的先進而喝采,過了馬路就是大型百貨公司,當我掛失的盥洗用品還沒找到前,我就先到百貨公司補貨囉。
My trip in September was based in Brno. When I first arrived at Brno Bus Terminal, I was impressed with its technology. Across the road was a huge shopping mall. Before my lost luggage was found, I went to "top up" my supply there.

Špilberk城堡Castle

布諾是捷克第二大城市,也是摩拉維亞首都。Špilberk城堡建立於十三世紀,護城牆之強,竟能防衛胡斯戰爭、瑞典戰爭波斯戰爭。當我穿越過美麗的公園爬上城堡時,一股不知名的寒風讓我不禁顫抖,心裡毛毛的。是我一直未痊癒的感冒前兆嗎?當我看到標示的景點為地窖時,我想我遇到好兄弟了。一個人爬上黑暗的走道後,迎面來的是一位捷克婦女,我對她微微笑,她也高興地說Dobrý den,我也很快樂地回應。
Brno was the second largest city in the Czech Republic and the capital of Moravia. Špilberk Castle was built in the 13th century and its strong fortification defended itself against the Hussites, Swedish and Prussians. As I climbed up the castle via the beautiful parks, I sensed an eerie chill that took me by surprise. Is that my never-ending cold symptom? When I saw the signpost for "Casemates" I realised that I might have some underworld friends. After climbing a dark corridor upwards, I met a Czech lady and smiled at her. She said Dobrý den and I replied back cheerfully.


 甘藍菜市場Zelný trh Cabbage Market

這一間餐廳是布諾最古老的,招牌菜皆是肉類,很諷刺的是它位於甘藍菜市場Zelný trh 裡。This restaurant was the oldest in Brno. Its famous dishes are poultry and meats. Ironically it is located at the Cabbage Market (Zelný trh).

有多少夜我從鄉村趕回來吃大餐?有一天隔壁桌是兩個英國工程師,一開始留意他們聊天是因為他們提到台灣。比較愛現的那一位誇獎台灣的好,後來看到我就開始說日本的好。我低頭一看,今天我不巧穿的是Hello Kitty,哈!然後愛現先生開始炫燿他周遊列國的經歷,結果看我比他們還阿莎立速點傳統食品﹝是因為肚子餓﹞,還用捷文和服務生交談,他才停止炫燿。這是德國豬腳和酸菜,右邊的麵包是捷克水餃。
How many nights did I came here for a big meal after my trip to the suburbs. On one night, there were two British engineers beside me. I noticed their conversation because they were discussing Taiwan. The boastful one was praising Taiwan first but changed to Japan once he saw me. I looked down and realised I was wearing Hello Kitty at that time. Ha! Then Mr Boastful showed off his experience in various countries. After they witnessed that I could order food much faster without asking (because I was hungry), and could talk to the waitresses in simple Czech, he stopped his brag. This is German port trotter and Sauerkraut with Czech dumplings on the right.

甘藍菜市場Zelný trh六點多就擠滿攤販。後面那不知名的破爛建築物是布諾最古老的建築,以往一定很壯觀。
The Cabbage Market (Zelný trh) was packed with vegetable stalls since 6am. The huge delerict building behind was the oldest building in Brno and must have its glamour day.

 Dietrichstein 宮殿Palace
 
巴納塞斯山噴泉是個壯觀的巴洛克山洞,洞裡有大力士管束著地府三頭狗,三位女性象徵巴比倫、波斯和希臘等領土。Parnassus Fountain was a magnificent Baroque cave with Hercules restraining the three-headed dog from the underworld. These three females represent Barbylon, Persia and Greece.


自由廣場Námìstí Svobody Freedom Square

自由廣場以往是貴族住宅區,後來重新發展為商業中心。我抵達時廣場皆是小販,有提早逛聖誕市集的感覺。
Freedom Square used to be the district for the nobles. It was later developed into a business centre. When I arrived there were stalls everywhere, I felt that the Christmas market had arrived earlier.

女子學院提供教育給貴族留下的孤女Women's Institue provided education for the orphaned girls daughter of the nobles.

這間百貨公司的大門有四位巨人,吃力地頂著房屋還要顧及著遮羞,民風保守的布諾市民還覺得為此蒙羞。
The entrance of this departmental store stood four giants in the altas position while trying to cover their private parts. Conservative Brno citizens still feel ashamed of this exhibition.


 舊市政廳Old Town Hall

舊市政廳在1905年的整修被加高五米,才不會被附近的新建築埋沒。An extra 5m was added to the Old Town Hall during the repair in 1905 so that it would not disappeared among the newly built houses nearby.

『你阻礙我的視線,把你打歪!』事實上是貴族出爾反爾沒付出事先答應的預定金,著名雕刻家決定讓世人嘲笑貴族。"You blocked my view, get lost!" In fact the nobleman who did not pay the sculpturer fee half way through the construction as promised, the latter decided to leave his mark for the whole world to laugh at the noble.

布諾龍曾住在附近的河裡亂吃生物,市長重賞勇夫終於把牠殺死奉在大門,說實在的,他們大概都不知道這是他人送的亞馬遜鱷魚。隔壁的布諾輪來自Lednice,當時有一位車匠和朋友打賭,他可以在傍晚前砍樹、製成車輪、滾回50km外的布諾,他成功了!不過有人謠傳他是有人相助,結果他的顧客跑光了,一毛不剩地死去。
Brno Dragon used to live in the nearby river eating anything he saw. The leader rewarded for a hunter who killed him and hung him at the gate. In fact, they might not know that this was Amazon crocodile as a gift. Brno wheel was from Lednice where a cartwright bet with his friend that he could fell a tree, make a wheel and roll 50km to Brno before dusk. He succeeded! However some rumours said that he got assistants so his customers went off and he died penniless.

曾經有一參議員在胡斯戰爭時打算和敵軍串通把布諾讓出,國王的弄臣當時被拘留在敵人的監獄聽到這個消息又逃獄,他出來揭開這個謊言,據說參議員就被活活埋在舊市政廳的牆裡。
A councilor planned to surrender Brno to the Hussites. The plan was overhead by the King's clown while a prison of the Hussites. He managed to escaped and told the story. Apparently the councilor was buried live in the wall of the old Town Hall.


布諾舊城Stare Brno

布諾和布拉格都有個性建築,在一個沒吃早餐趕路的早晨,看到這三隻公雞讓我想起玉米片。Both Brno and Prague had characteristic buildings. In a morning without breastfast rushing to the next destination, I saw these roosters and dreamed of cornflakes.

劇院Theatre

劇院Theatre

Mahen劇院Theatre

Menin門是僅存的城門 Menin Gate was the only surviving old town gate.



德國建築師Ludwig Mies van der Rohe在1919-1922建造富商女兒的結婚禮物:世界第一座開放式建築,它也是UNESCO世界遺跡之一,可惜我時間不夠只能經過拍照。
 German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe built the world's first open-planned villa as a wedding present for a richman's daughter. It was also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unfortunately I did not have time to tour so I could only take a snap outside.

這附近都是高級住宅區,我還有去吃寮國食品Sabaidy,好懷念東南亞食品喔!
This is also a posh area to live in. I even had a Laos meal at Sabaidy. I really miss Southeast Asian food.

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