Ariella

抵達Žďár nad Sázavou的時候已近中午，沒想到公車午休中，下一班車是一小時後。想著等一下要趕回布拉格搭飛機返英，分秒必爭，我提著身上十幾公斤的行李往綠山Zelená hora朝聖。
When I reached Žďár nad Sázavou, it was nearly noon. Bus service was at its lunch break and the next bus was an hour later. I got to save time because I had to rush back to Prague to catch the flight back to Glasgow. Without hesitation, I carried all my belonging, which weighted more than 10kg, towards the Green Hill (Zelená hora).

Žďár nad Sázavou的發展與當地西妥會修道院息息相關，這是下方墓園，是骷髏頭型呢！﹝來源一﹞
Development of Žďár nad Sázavou was closely related to the local Cistercian monastery. This is the Lower Cemetery in the shape of a skull (Photo from PS1)

綠山上的聖約翰內波穆克教堂是建築師Jan Blazej Santini Aichl晚年的巔峰作品。教堂以五成型，外牆成瑪莉安十點星型，中心的教堂則是約翰五點星型，地基成五星，五個入口，五座尖塔，25個小禮拜堂，尖塔上的五顆星和五位天使。這經典建築被UNESCO列為世界遺跡，捷克的世界遺跡也真多。﹝來源二﹞
Church of St John of Nepomuk on Green Hill was the masterpiece of Architect Jan Blazej Santini Aichl at the end of his life. This building was in a basis of five. The external wall was constructed in a Marian 10-pointed star pattern while the chapel was in a 5-pointed star of John. There was a five-pointed ground plan, five enterances, five altar niches, twenty-five chapels around a central space, five stars and five angels on the high altar. This timeless work was listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO. Well, there are so many of such heritages in the Czech Republic. (PS2)

有一個傻女孩背著行李走過工業區和貧民窟，引起所有人的指指點點，直到我開始火大，看我又不會幫我！剛離開車站就看到綠山的標示為『>3000公尺』，我走了15分鐘，還是看到『>3000公尺』的標示。一個多小時後，我在綠山腳下氣喘如牛，轉頭一看，剛剛可以等的公車也剛好抵達我這個卸了氣的皮球拖著步伐爬上綠山，觀望附近的修道院，其實綠山很美麗。
A silly girl carried her heavy luggage across factories and shantytown while everyone was pointing at her. I became angry: You just want to watch me but did not offer to help me! When I first left the station, the signpost to Green Hill was >3000m. After walking for 15 minutes, the next sign still showed ">3000m." More than an hour later, I was panting at the foot of Green Hill when the bus that I could have taken arrived  I climbed up the Green Hill feeling defeated. However, looking over the monastery nearby, Green Hill was actually picturesque.

約翰內波穆克原是主教約翰真斯坦的副手，因為主教和國王瓦次拉夫四世不合，他被折磨致死丟到Vltava河裡。身為蘇菲皇后的告解教父，他的死亡變成傳說，說他不願洩漏皇后的秘密才被謀殺。三百多年後當他的墳墓被打開時，有一塊紅肉掉了出來，傳說中是他的舌頭，後來科學家證明只是染血的腦組織。
John of Nepomuk was the deputy to the Archbishop John of Jenstejn. Disputes between King Wenceslas IV and archbishop led to his torture to death and his body was thrown to River Vltava. As confessor to the Queen, it was thought that he was murdered because he had refused to reveal her secrets. Three centuries later his tomb was opened and a priece of reddened tissue fell out of his skull. The legend said that it was his tongue but later scientists proved that it was the part of the brain with congealed blood.

除了耶穌身上的五道傷口，還有拉丁文的五個字TACUI (我保持沉默)，禮拜堂上方有五顆星，代表在約翰內波穆克溺斃之處升起的五顆星。上方還有一張大舌頭圍繞著火焰，象徵著約翰內波穆克沉默的力量。
The 5-star symbol not only of the five wounds of Christ, but also of the five letters in the Latin word „tacui“ (I kept silent) and above all the five stars in the halo of the martyr St. John of Nepomuk, which the legend tells us were seen above his drowned body. At the top of the cupola a large tongue circled with flames, suggesting St John of Nepomuk's silence was placed.


我心裡取得平靜，也願教堂裡的靈魂能夠安息。I felt peaceful here and wished that everyone would rest in peace.


原本富麗繁華的洛可可壁畫只剩下這一面。This was the only wall left with rich rococo decoration.

我緩緩走下山坐公車，路邊等車的阿婆看到我好興奮，拉著我批哩趴拉的講話。我想她大概沒見過華裔女性吧？我笑笑著，聽到她說公車站autobusové，這是我唯一聽的懂得捷文，我趕快點點頭示意我要去公車總站。Žďár nad Sázavou的公共交通還比捷克的其他城市還先進，竟然有悠游卡可以刷。只是公車一小時只跑一次，我想公車司機就那幾位吧！到了公車火車總站，我才發現我的惡夢才剛開始。學生們紛紛下課，他們看到我就一群群跑過來打量我，一開始我還覺得很好笑，還有人特地在我面前徘徊到我注意到他了才滿意地離去。後來一個個都是把我從頭到腳看得很仔細，我又開始火大了。終於了解Morag在中國的痛苦了。
I walked down the hill slowly towards the bus stop. The granny waiting at the stop was so excited to see me and kept chatting to me. I might be the first Chinese girl she met. I listened to her smilingly. When I heard the word Bus Terminal (autobusové), I nodded my head hard. Public transport in Žďár nad Sázavou was fairly advanced because everyone carried a swipecard. Unfortunately the bus runs every hourly, I guess there were just a few drivers. When I reached the Bus terminal, my nightmare began. Students were just off from schools and keen to observe me closely. Initially I thought it was hilarious because one wandered in front of me and only left when my eyes rested on him. Later, they really looked at me from the top to toes until I became fed up. I finally understood Morag's pain in China.

回家的路上很驚險，公車誤點讓我已為我趕不上要轉的車，結果轉的車也誤點。我才放心地邊欣賞風景邊打瞌睡。心裡很想念英國，我對這一個人的旅途已經厭倦。我多麼想找人聊聊天，分享我的收穫。布拉格四周都是遊客，讓我覺得有一點不適應。我買了紀念品後衝去熟悉的Kava Kava Kava咖啡廳上網，搜尋我遺失的飯店資料，再趕去機場。結果去英國的班機全部誤點，機場都是英國足球迷和Pub Crawl的醉客亂插隊，我最討厭這樣的英國人了，看得出捷克地勤人員也這麼覺得。我微笑用捷文和地勤人員問好道謝，他便劃舒適的座位給我，比排在我前面的醉漢還好。我餓壞了，走了三公里路只啃兩條麵包的我是不好惹的，只好在免稅商店出氣。飛機竟然不夠飲食，這一群醉鬼就空腹喝酒醉得更快。不幸的是，全機醉的最糟糕的女生就坐在我旁邊！我抵達時發現行李被打開過了，可能是我用衣服包的白酒形狀像炸彈吧！哈！

My trip home was quite adventurous. The first bus was delayed and made me think that I would miss the connecting bus but I didn't! Because the connecting bus was late too. So I could snooze and enjoy the scenaries along the way. I really missed Britain. I was tired of this journey alone. I really wanted to look for someone to talk and share my harvest. Prague was full of tourists that I was not used to it. After buying some sounevir, I went to my favourite Kava Kava Kava Cafe to check internet for my lost hotel information. Then I rushed to the airport and found all flights to UK were delayed so the terminal was packed with Brits football fans and Pub Crawlers trying to cut queues. I disliked this kind of Brits and could see the Czech officers feel so. I used my limited Czech to say hi and thanks to the officer who gave me a better seat than those who queued before me. I was so hungry because I only took two pieces of bread after walking for more than 3KM. I spent my anger on the duty free shops. The flight did not have food so drunkards got worse drinking empty-stomached. Unfortunately I sat with the most drunk women on board. When I arrived I found my luggage was opened before. Probably the wine I wrapped around with my clothes shaped like a bomb. Ha!

到曼徹斯特市區，我才發現我的飯店竟在酒吧後巷，更糟的是，他根本沒開放，打電話都沒人接。我只好臨時去外星姊家避難，埋在心裡七天的話一下子爆發出來真爽快，外星姊真是辛苦你了。不過隔天趕去上班覺得：怎麼放假比值班還累啊？
When I finally reached Manchester city centre, I found my hotel at the back of pubs. Worst of all, it was not open and no one picked up the phone. I had to escape to G4alien's house and burst out words that I had hidden for 7 days. This was great! But it must be hard on G4alien. When I rushed back to work on the next day and felt: Why do I feel more tired after this holiday than after my on-calls?

引申閱讀Further reading: Žďár nad Sázavou市鎮介紹Introduction of the town, Žďár nad Sázavou - UNESCO介紹Introduction