Ariella

這一篇文章已經擱了一年了，在搬家前趕快PO出來。我喜歡自助旅行的另外一個原因，就是因為可以嘗試當地美食。我很不喜歡旅遊團還要三餐都吃不中不西的中式餐點，又貴三三的，我也不喜歡像某些背包客只吃麥當勞和泡麵，這些在哪裡都可以吃吧，還不見得便宜呢。經過在新加坡多元種族的洗禮後，我對各國美食的接受度還算挺高的。媽媽來新加坡探望我時很不屑吃印度拉餅，看我用手拿餅皮沾咖哩沾糖，她還覺得我學到不好習慣，我也只是入進隨俗罷了，直到媽媽要回台的那一天讓我說服吃ㄧ口印度拉餅，竟然讚不絕口，回到台灣都還念念不忘呢！當我說要來捷克旅行時，來過的朋友說食物很難吃，姊姊妹妹還問我是不是要吃傑克與豌豆 幸好Morag和我一樣是美食愛好者，所以她帶我去挖掘捷克的寶。
One reason why I enjoy backpacking is because I can try as many local food as I like. I don't like those Taiwanese package tours that include expensive non-Chinese Chinese food in each meal. I am not like those backpackers who feed on McDonald's and instant noodle. You can have them eveywhere in the world but why in the Czech Republic!? They are not really cheap. After living in Singapore, my willingness to try on various cuisines seemed to have gone up to a different level. When Mum visited me in Singapore, she despised on Indian Roti Prata. When she saw me dipping prata into curry and sugar using my hands, she thought that I had acquired a bad habit. Well, I was trying to fit into the locals. On the very last day Mum was leaving for Taiwan, I managed to persuade her into a bite of Roti Prata, she loved it! Before I came to the Czech Republic, I had heard about the poor quality of food. My sisters even asked if I was going to eat Jack and the Giant Beanstalk Fortunately, Morag loves food as much as I do. Thus, she led me the way to the treasures in this country.

波希米亞早餐Bohemian Breakfast

Bohemia Bagel是美國人和捷克人在布拉格合作開發的連鎖『美而美』，把捷克的早餐加上美式麵包，還有漢堡之類，還蠻有特色的，價錢也很合理，菜單有英文和捷文，不過食客大部分是說英文的外國人。對人生地不熟的遊客來說，這是一間英語也通食譜也簡單的簡餐店。
Bohemia Bagel was founded by a team of Americans and Czechs in Prague. They combined Czech breakfast with American pastry. They even have their own burgers. It is quite an unique cafe with a bargainable price. The menu is in both Czech and English. However, there are more English-speaking tourists in the cafe. For tourists who do not know anything in Prague, this is a good choice.

布拉格啤酒屋Beerhouse (Restaurace a pivnice) in Prague

和歐洲各國一樣，酒與美食是無法分開的。捷克有許多間啤酒屋，都是一邊是Bar一邊是餐廳，這一間U Fleků氣氛很好，還有樂隊表演傳統音樂。我們當天還遇到一群俄羅斯美眉，可能是因為以前共產主義影響，樂隊阿伯也唱起了俄羅斯民謠，大家High的很。
Similar to all other European countries, people must enjoy good food with alcohol. in Prague, there are several beerhouses which are a combination of beer bars and restaurants. This U Fleků is atmospheric especially with the cabaret. We bumped into a group of Russian girls so the band sang Russian folk songs for them. This really reflects the Russian influence on this country.

我點的是豬肉+麵包包子+馬鈴薯包子+德國泡菜，Morag點的是牛肉的，真是十分難解釋。捷克的包子其實是把麵糰放進烤箱，和其他肉類一起烤，只有麵糰的是Bread Dumpling (houskové knedlíky)，有加馬鈴薯絲的是Potato Dumpling (bramborové knedlíky)
My goulash is pork with bread dumpling, potato dumling and sauerkraut while Morag ordered the similar version in beef. It is very difficult to explain. But the so-called dumpling is made by baking a dough of flour with other meats in the oven. Plain dough is the Bread Dumpling (houskové knedlíky) while those with potato slices are otato Dumpling (bramborové knedlíky)

這是布拉格另外一間啤酒屋Pivovarský dům，它真的是啤酒屋，到處都是釀酒管酒槽，很有氣氛。
This was another beerhouse called Pivovarský dům. It was a real beerhouse with pipes and barrels everywhere.

我只是嘗試加了青草的啤酒，實在不合我的胃口，晚餐倒是不錯的。還有在捷克點菜要注意的一點，侍者很喜歡幫你送來一籃麵包或沙拉，一定要請他們拿走，不要以為是免費的，之後會出現在帳單上。布拉格啤酒屋的另一個缺點，就是遊客很多，所以他們會把不認識的人擠在同一桌﹝偷講壞話不方便﹞
I tried some herbal beer but did not like it. The food was otherwise excellent. Another point to watch when you order food in the Czech Republic is that waiters love to bring you a basket of bread or a plate of salad. Do send them back or else they will be charged at your bill. They are not free at all. Moreover, there are a lot of tourists in the beerhouses in Prague. Waiters enjoy squeezing people of different groups together (Well, then we cannot talk bad about them)

布拉格義大利食品Italian food in Prague

從Karlovry Vary趕回來，我們想不出要吃什麼，就決定到處逛Passage，在舊城廣場的某個小巷裡找到這一家手工Pizza店，一客只要台幣70，讚！
When we returned from Karlovy Vary, we ran out of ideas what to eat. Then we tried our luck around the passages. We managed to find cheap and tasty handmake pizza!

美祿廣場Náměstí Míru

在不知不覺中，Morag居住的Náměstí Míru已經是我在布拉格的家，連Morag不在時，我都不小心住到在那附近的青年旅社。第二次到捷克時是五月份，天氣正好，我和Morag就在路邊吃起沙拉當晚餐。這一區有很多好吃的餐廳，因為是在第二區，價格上都十分平民，都比台北便宜。
Náměstí Míru where Morage lived has also become my home in Prague. Even when Morag was not around, I managed to stay at a hostel there. It was May when I visited Prague for the second time. The weather was so good that we sat and ate salad for our dinner at the road side. There are several good restaurants here. Since it is in zone 2, the prices are more reasonable, too.

布拉格的馬杜沙﹝滿頭都是蛇的魔女﹞Medusa in Prague

這附近也有這一間很有氣氛的餐廳，但是五月天氣太好，好像也是有足球賽的關係，沒有什麼顧客，我忘了我點什麼，但是我不是很喜歡，Morag點的就很好吃
This beautiful restaurant was nearby. It seemed either the weather was too good or there was a football match. There were not many customers on the day we visited Medusa. I forgot what I ordered but it did not impress me. Morag did have a good meal.

唯一覺得讓我驚嘆的是這一瓶瑞士大麻茶，我點來喝也不覺得High，很像立頓冰紅茶
To my surprise I found this Swiss Cannabis tea. It did not have any effects on me. It just tastes like Lipton Ice Tea

布拉格的羅浮宮咖啡廳Café Lourve, Prague

這是布拉格文人聚集之地，已經有百年歷史的羅浮宮咖啡廳，卡夫卡、Karel Capek、愛因斯坦都有是這裡的常客﹝阿後，等我出頭天﹞
Café Lourve in Prague is the place for poets and artists. Franz Kafka, Karel Capek and Albert Einstein were frequent visitors (Wait until I become famous!)

我喜歡捷克的一點，就是餐廳咖啡廳都會在菜單、桌巾紙上都會有說明他們店的起源歷史，有看到英文和德文吧？
I love to read the history of various cafes from their menu and table deco. Have you seen it in English and German?

當我和Morag在大快朵頤時，旁邊兩桌遠的一位帥哥開始和隔壁一桌的捷克美女搭訕。他一開始問她這裡的服務都很慢嗎？﹝我OS: 阿不然？﹞然後他又開始問她該點什麼，我覺得那捷克美眉英文雖然是不錯，但是沒有流利到可以和他閒話家常的地步。帥哥雖然帥，卻好像沒什麼大腦，開始吹噓他到各國旅行的經驗，說實在的，捷克人好像也不是很崇外，在Morag面前，更是小巫見大巫。然後他開始說他會法文，然後秀了一口破法文，我這個外行的都聽得出他說的很破，就忍不住笑了起來。我抬頭看看Morag，她也壓低音量和我說：『我從來沒有這麼渴望我能和你用中文交談。』﹝我一直笑Morag去中國教英文一年只學會用中文打招呼和點菜﹞。接著美眉的女性朋友抵達，帥哥更起勁地和她們聊天，不過這兩個捷克女生就批哩啪啦用捷文講話，也沒有理他，帥哥只好摸摸鼻子回去原位，點菜的時候還鬧出笑話。
When we were enjoying our meal, a handsome amn chatted up with a Czech beauty next to us. He initially asked if the service had been always slow (I wanted to say: what do you think?) Then he asked for her suggestions of the dishes. I could tell that the Czech lady spoke good English. Perhaps she couldn't speak fluent enough to chat. That man was handsome and,  however,brainless. He boasted about his journey to different countries. In fact, Czechs are not so pro-foreign. He was only a chicken in front of Morag. Then he started to speak French, very horribly spoken. I was so not fluent in French and I could tell that he was totally not fluent. I could not stop giggling. I looked up to Morag. She toned down her voice and said "I have never been so desperate to speak to you in Mandarin Chinese." (I have always laughed at Morag for not able to speak Mandarin after a year in China. She could only say greetings and order food.) When the Czech beauty's friend arrived, that man put on his 100% effort but the two Czech girls decided to chat in Czech completely. He had to return to his own seat and made a fool of himself while ordering his food.

我點的可麗餅和Morag的提拉米蘇。事後我和Morag在推測這男人應該是加拿大人，有北美腔，加上會一點法文。不過看他的樣子，不像是很會旅行的，搭訕的技巧也實在太糟糕，用來騙沒見過外國人的東方女性是可以唬人啦！不過能在Louvre吃飯的捷克人家境應該也很好見識也很廣，怎麼會看上他這種俗辣？
My lovely pancake and Morag's tiramisu. We guessed from his American accent and ability to speak French that he should be Canadian. However, from his behaviour, he did not seem to have travelled a lot. He also need to brush up his skill in wooing women. He probably can fool Asian women who have not seen many Caucasians. The Czech ladies who could afford to eat in Louvre must have come from a decent background and seen the world. Who would fall for such an idiot?

Karlory Vary餐廳Restaurant in Karlory Vary

我們到Karlory Vary的民宿隔壁就是這一間啤酒屋，一看窗口的俄羅斯軍人就知道受俄國文化的影響囉，可惜沒位置
This was the beerhouse next to our B&B in Karlory Vary. From the Russian soldier at the window display, you can see the Russian influence again. Too bad it was too packed so we did not eat here.

啤酒屋位於小巷裡，所以在巷口有一位傷兵來為大家帶路。我們剛好遇到了一群俄羅斯遊客，沒機會在傷兵旁拍照。
As the beerhouse was in the small passage, a wounded soldier guided the way. We met a group of Russian tourists so we did not have the chance to leave our photos next to the wounded soldier.

我們後來在Karlory Vary的另一邊找到這一間餐廳 We found this restaurant at the other end of Karlory Vary

可惜在Morag面前我會收斂一點，不想一直拍照，這一間是以野味為主，我點了兔子肉，好像雞肉喔！
I didn't take as many photos as I usually do in front of Morag. This restaurant specialises in wild meat. I ordered rabbit meat which tasted like chicken

第一次喝無酒精的啤酒，讚！這是德國啤酒，很香甜！口齒留香。Delicious non-alcoholic beer from Germany. Aromatic! Great!

Mariánské Lázně

在Mariánské Lázně等火車，就先來吃Pizza當晚餐，這是另外一種無酒精啤酒
While waiting for the next train at Mariánské Lázně, we went to an Italian restaurant for dinner. This is another type of non-alcoholic beer.

Krčma v Šatlavské at Český Krumlov

這一間燒烤店很有氣氛，整間店在地窖裡。它生意很好，幾乎所有位置都被訂了，我只好在炎熱的五月天坐在火爐旁當烤魚。我和照片裡的女生很有緣喔，也是同一時間去遊城堡。
This barbeque restaurant is in the form of a cellar. Almost all the seats had been reserved by the time I visited. Thus, I had to roast myself next to the fireplace. I always saw this girl in my trip in Český Krumlov

Bar台上的酒Wine barrel at the bar

這是我喝過最神奇的湯，外殼是脆皮麵包，呈上來時已經幫你把蓋子削好，我一邊吃ㄧ邊挖，很好奇麵包會不會破。
This was the most amazing bowl of soup I have ever tasted. The bowl was a crispy form of bread. The lid had already been prepared. I was diggin up the soup and wondering if the pastry would eventually tear up.

這是這家店的招牌烤肉，不過我覺得烤過頭了，肉都硬了，份量太多，我都吃不完。
This was the top dish from this restaurant. But I felt that the meat was overcooked so it was so hard. The portion was also too huge for me.

布諾民宿早餐Breakfast at B&B in Brno

在Brno住的民宿每天都可以選不一樣的早餐，還會送到你房間，真好。這是起司煎蛋。
The pension I stayed at Brno provided different breakfast of the choice everyday. They even deliver the food to your room. They were so considerate. This was Cheese Omelete

我還是比較喜歡是麵包夾火腿，和德系國家一樣，捷克麵包的選擇也很多，也有許多不同種的火腿和起司。
I still prefer bread with ham. Similar to other Geman-influenced countries. there was a good seleciton of pastry, ham and cheese.

在布諾甘藍菜市場旁的Špalíček Near the Cabbage Market, Brno

這是傳統美食Vepřové s křenem 豬腳+ 辣根+ 包子，感覺十分德式。布諾雖然是捷克第二大城，畢竟還是沒有布拉格繁華，店面也很早休息，所以當我已布諾當圓心每日往四周城鎮一日遊時，回到布諾都已經很晚，總是來同一家吃飯。這一家號稱是布諾最貨真價實的肉類餐廳，卻很諷刺地位於甘藍菜市場邊緣。我第二次光臨時，旁邊剛好是一桌英國人。大概我身上穿著Hello Kitty，看起來很幼齒，他們開始聊日本的先進，我也不太理他們，我只是偽日本人。他們開始聊起台灣時，我便豎起耳朵聽，原來是兩位來布諾出差的工程師。然後其中一位大叔開始聊起他去過的城市，他欣賞的建築和花園，沒來過布諾，又突然提起Glasgow，讓我繼續裝傻偷聽下去。這位大叔雖然很有知識，不過感覺還是臭屁了一些，直到另一位大叔說他已經聽夠的全世界。直到我的豬腳出現，他們倆才突然注意我很敢吃，呵呵，英國人是很沒有冒險精神的。
The traditional food Vepřové s křenem consists of pork, horseradish and dumpling. Quite a German dish. Although Brno is the second largest city in the Czech Republic, it is still not as touristy as Prague so shops shut down early. I used Brno was the centre of my excursions to nearby towns. Thus every time I came back to Brno it was late in the evening and I had to visit the same restaurant. This was the "meatist" restauant in Brno, and ironically located at the Cabbage Market. At my second visit, I sat next to two Brits. I probably looked younger in my Hello Kitty. They initially talked about the advance in Japan and I could not care less. I was a fake Japanese. Then they started to talk about Taiwan. I listened on. They seemed to be engineers on their business trip to Brno. One of them boasted about the cities he had visited, the architecture and gardens, and that he had not been to Brno. He suddenly mentioned Glasgow so I listened on further. Although this uncle seems to be more knowledgeable, I still find him very boastful. Finally the other gentleman stopped by saying that they should put a stop to the trip around the world. Until my lovely pork feet appeared, they realised I really had the guts to eat what they did not dare to eat.


在布諾也是在捷克的最後一晚，我很晚才從Kroměříž趕回來，還特地跑到第二區吃寮國菜Sabaidy，一周沒吃亞洲菜，夠辣夠酸！我感動到快哭了起來，一下子就被我吃完了，本來想再多叫一道，結果大廚剛剛下班，侍者也被我的食量嚇到，唉呦，我午餐只吃麵包

Karlštejn

Karlštejn離布拉格很近，所以餐廳不多，都是給想過夜的遊客而開的。我們要等一個多小時之後的火車，就順便來吃飯殺時間，沒想到吃到我覺得最好吃的Goulash滷肉，這一盤是牛肉

我不知道為什麼拍這一張，Melnik有很多餐廳但是都很排外的感覺，不知道排的是我？還是長得像德國人的Morag？這一盤炸豬肉有夠難吃

加加減減，我去捷克的這三趟也大概住了有一個月，早午餐通常是啃麵包過生活，晚上的時候又常常飢不擇食，很多好吃的餐廳我都沒拍照留念，不過美麗的回憶還是在的。